Named for a mountain in Korea famed for its beauty, Sorak Garden lives up to the designation with an artful interior. Rich wood, lush plants and Korean artifacts are everywhere; strings of tiny white lights hang in the main dining room.

Busy as it can get, it’s a lovely environment in which to sample the hearty and boldly flavored cooking of Korea. Crisp dumplings in the shape of half-moons are stuffed with juicy crumbled beef, and squid and sweet peppers are scattered over a pleasantly gelatinous “pancake.

“Grills built into the tabletops are used to stir-cook the barbecue for which Korea is famous, and entrees are preceded by a colorful parade of snacks, or panchan. The menu is big, ranging from noodles to casseroles to sushi, although raw fish is not the best reason to come here.

The various hot pots are. A little black cauldron of brick-red broth, thick with cabbage, pork slices and custardy tofu, steams and bubbles as it is set before you; this kimchi soup takes its color from potent red chilles. Good news: Where once complained about indifferent service, lately I’m pleased to report smiling welcomes, and help with grilling your shrimp, beef, squid or vegetables at the table.